Boat
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boat trip checklist
prepare
- check weather including marine weather
- check tides
- plot routes on OpenCPN or navigation app of your choice.
- OpenCPN is a phone/laptop app. It is opensource but may cost $5-10. Set it up by downloading charts for state you are going to.
- IBoatNavigation is also a phone/laptop app. It has great graphics and charts of lakes. for Android, I had to pay $20.99 for all the US charts including inland waterways. The windows chart price is $100, I didn't get that. You can create routes with the android app but you can also create them on OpenCPN laptop and export then import the .gpx route files. They look better on iBoat too.
Use it in conjunction with the chartplotter/fishfinder on the boat, setting that for the zoomed in view and the phone to see a zoomed out view. the boat device also reads the actual depth and the water temperature.
- check/charge boat battery
- check/charge impact driver battery (for lug nuts and jack)
- uncover and clean boat, there is a little vac in the kitchen that works to pick up oak tree debris.
- check for life jackets and paddle
- load cushions, stick them under the seats for trailing
- add lures to tackle box
- add some tools emergency tools from the shop into the tackle box and put it in the boat
- put in plugs
- check gas
- inspect trailer
- put in the ball hitch
- remove the right trailer wheel chock and position the front of the trailer about 3-4 feet from the edge of the driveway ( so the right trailer wheel doesn't hit the tree on your way out)
- install the ball hitch to the car (it is kept on the trailer near the spare tire)
- back in and connect to trailer
- make sure trailer support is folded and secured by bungee. Insert the pin into the holder. The spring is broken so you need to hook one end of the bungee to the pin handle and then wrap around the support and hook to the frame.
- make sure cotter pin is in ball latch
- twist chains so they don't hit the road and attach
- connect wiring
- put impact driver (charged) in car. It should have 2 impact sockets inside, one for the lug nuts and one to raise and lower the scissor jack (under the floor of the luggage area)
- remove chocks under wheels
- check engine is sitting in its travelling support
- check charplotter/fishfinder is there
- check key is in side holding area
- check whistle is in side holding area
- add fishing poles, cooler, dry-bag (chairs and umbrellas)
- make sure everybody has warm clothes
- make sure you have enough water
- make sure nothing looks like it can blow out of the boat
- look behind you every once in a while so you know where you will eventually will head back to
driving
- get gas if you need it
- check for things about to blow out of the boat
- keep looking for smooth spinning trailer wheels in mirrors
- swing wide on turns so trailer wheels don't go over curbs
- if driving the Tuscon, save ~4 miles of EV by running in sport mode. The electric motor is better at backing up the driveway
at ramp
- pull up in a semicircle, so the boat is heading straight toward the ramp
- uncover bimini to and raise. put the cover in the car
- raise motor and fold in the travelling support then lower a little
- untie the boat tiedown at the license plate side. extend it up along the other side towards the front, tying it to the trailer frame
- check that the front and back plugs are in
- load the boat with stuff
- back trailer down until the bottom roller is ~6in underwater
- undo the chain holding the boat
- release and undo the winch hook. Don't let the winch strap hit the salt water
- don't have the bumpers out, they hit the trailer guides
- ease the boat down, holding the front line, careful to toss it over the trailer lights
running
- make sure the motor is down
- pump the bulb on the gas line
- put up the idle lever
- turn the key while pushing in (to choke)
- push the choke in again if it seems to be about to die
- done let it idle too high
- push the idle arm all the way down
- turn on the dashboard power button (right side(the running lights switch is on the left)). Press the power button on the chartplotter/fishfinder. Press enter to agree. this should be set up to lay down a track of your journey that you can follow home. Set tracking to true on your phone app as well.
- shift like you mean it, don't delay between gears, hold up the red thing in the handle as you shift
- ask people to sit in places that keep the boat balanced
- be in the habit of glancing at the depth indicator
returning to ramp
- if tide is low, visually check that the trailer tires aren't going to fall off a cliff. If the bottom of the ramp is sketchy have someone guide you.
- lower the trailer until the bottom roller is about 6" underwater
- release the winch lock. Pull it out a little so it is easy to hook to the boat but don't let the strap hit salt water (it rots the winch). The winch strap should be under the front top roller.
- holding on to the boat's front dock line float the boat into position then pull it up as far as you can with just the dock line. Then pull out the winch strap enough to hook it to the boat and crank it in the rest of the way.
before leaving the ramp
- lower the bimini and re-cover
- put engine on travelling support
- pull the plugs
- retie the boat hold down strap to the trailer
- inspect the hitch
- take the key out and tuck it into the side
- snap the seats down
- make sure what remains in the boat isn't going to blow out
returning to parley vale
- come in from Rockview side
- pull up all the way to the #8 Parley Vale sign
- be slow and careful, don't feel bad about pausing, pulling forward and trying again multiple times.
- don't hit the house
- ideally, the back left trailer tire is aligned with the porch support post and about 4 ft away
- chock that wheel
- put down the trailer front support, making sure the pin is in the hole (the spring is broken)
- crank it up but if it doesn't come of the ball easily you may need to shove the boat back or put the car up an inch. Don't force it
- disconnect the chains and wires
- push the front of the trailer a bit toward the tree and chock the other wheel
- crank the trailer up enough so the water can drain in the boat.
- remove the tackle box, take out the tools that might be in it and put them on the workbench. Put the tackle box in the boat shed
- remove fishing poles, umbrellas and chairs
- clean up inside the boat a little.
- you can leave the cushions and life jackets
- re-cover the boat with the blue tarp
if in salt water
- put the earmuffs(hanging in shed) on the engine water intake, turn on the hose and run the engine for a few minutes. When you are done, say out loud 'sorry for the noise, done now'
- thoroughly spray all parts of the trailer. Spray the outside of the hull, and the woodwork (except the dashboard)
- spray down fishing gear and umbrellas. Leave umbrellas out to dry.
- spray the underside of the vehicle so the car doesn't rot
vhf
- “Annabelle, Annabelle, Annabelle, this is Christine, Christine, Christine, channel 1-6, over"
- "“Christine, this is Annabelle. Christine switch to 6-8."
- "Christine switching 6-8".
- "Annabelle returning to stand by channel 16,”
- Safety calls, as recognized by the spoken phrase Securité
- Urgency calls, as recognized by the spoken phrase pan-pan (pronounced pahn-pahn)
- Distress calls, as recognized by the spoken phrase mayday are broadcast when
maintenance log
hull# 5A6610
anchor mounts
http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/king_starboard/526
http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/157418-anchor-holder-back-boat.html#b
ladder
http://www.armstrongnautical.com/ladders.htm
Biminis
repower
I am going to switch out an '82 Johnson 50 on my ~'79 15' Sport, mainly because I am tired of tilting it up by hand. I got a 60hp Evinrude (60LTEUAvro). Even the top lower holes on it are below the well. The existing holes in the transom are pretty close to the bottom of the well. If I installed there the engine would end up a good 2" higher than the top of the transom. Is this OK?
back to boat
Evinrude 60hp E60TLEUA 1997
parts
- carb rebuild 0396701, 18-7222, 18-7042 ~$16
- fuel filter 0398327, 18-7830 ~$6
- plugs QL78YC
- 5004533 - Power Pack Kit CD3AL67
- 0582508 - Ignition Coil
no acceleration, bad (troaty,slow) at midspeed, floor it and get to 20mph for a 500yards
check for carb kits, get spark plugs, clean carbs
no spark
Just died while running at 4 knots on a 85 degree day 15 min after crossing the sheepscot on 7/26/20. Got a DAV test probe, stator an timer and kill switch were OK. It was the power pack
CDI 113-4808 ignition pack 3 cyl install/troubleshoot in /onedrive/info/boat https://www.amazon.com/CDI-Electronics-173-4560-Johnson-Evinrude/dp/B00GRT6IS6
starts then dies at WOT over and over
solution
Turns out it was the fuel pump. When Jeff (of Diamond Marine) watched the video it pushed him back to thinking it was a fuel problem; the slow repetition of surging and dying out did not seem to be electrical to him. When he took it out, he too pumped up the bulb when it was dying and it had no effect; so the common wisdom that if pumping the bulb has no effect, you can rule out the fuel pump turns out not to be true for these VRO2 type pumps. My mistake was to only check the choke at low speed. I though I was verifying that it wasn't stuck on but Jeff choked it at full-speed-dying-out and it came back to life. That was enough for him to decide it was the fuel pump.
So I spent the afternoon fishing in beautiful Ipswich MA, $1,200 poorer and with 4 weeks of summer having slipped away. $368 of it was Jeff repeating what I'd already done, plugs, fuel filter, rebuild carbs, change out the tank and hose. You see this kind of 'professionalism' all over our culture, from medicine to mechanics. The next $832 was 3 hours of labor + the VRO2 pump marked up 25% over what you can get it for from marineengine.com. I don't think they got rich off this job, between 2 trips to put it in the water, they probably spent more than 6 person hours.
So I learned a couple of things about diagnosing. Turns out there was no magic bullet of high speed tank or fancy test equipment. The two likely scenarios that I didn't want to get wrong were power pack or VRO2 pump. I could have bought both of those high price items + a coil, carb kits tank, hose and filter for less than 1/2 of what I spent at the certified tech. I shouldn't have chickened out, I was afraid to be just an (expensive) part replacer. Oh well. Thanks for all your help. Happy boating.
2nd post - starts then dies at WOT over and over
Runs good at low speeds. Push it to WOT it will spurt like its going to go but then dies to a crawl with a throaty moan, then picks up again then dies. Over and Over. Pumping the bulb has no effect. Does the same at mid speeds.
So far... winterized by the book, used new fuel in clean tanks then... rebuilt carbs, changed fuel line, changed tank, new fuel filter, new plugs, checked spark, checked compression.
Took it to Diamond Marine, an Evinrude certified tech in Ipswich MA for 'dies at WOT'. They repeated what I did, but never tested it at WOT. $360 later I put it in the Ipswich River and it is the same. Here is a video They say could still be fuel but maybe power pack or maybe stator.
The engine is a '97 60hp (E60TLUEA) 3 cylinder carbed with vro2.
Not sure where to go with this as my vacation slips away
- http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/021256.html
- http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engine-repair-and-maintenance/johnson-evinrude-outboards/9991462-dies-to-a-crawl-when-you-hit-the-gas-60hp-97-evinrude
- http://www.evinrudeoutboardforum.com/evinrude-outboard-parts-forum/3745-intermittent-rough-running-60hp-97-evinrude.html#post7874
- http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?426509-intermittent-rough-running-60hp-97-Evinrude&highlight=intermittent+rough
1st post - dies to a crawl when you hit the gas 60hp '97 Evinrude
Runs pretty good at idle. Will spurt like its going to go but then dies to a crawl with a throaty moan. I just pulled the carbs and went through them, changed the fuel filter, swapped out line to tank...nada...
last week...
Running at 'no wake speed' engine sounded good for 9 seconds then rough and throaty for 12 seconds for the entire 10 minute ride to the boat ramp. Varying speed slightly didn't change the pattern. First time in for the season was the day before and it ran fine on a little trip to the beach. On the return trip it wouldn't accelerate so I eased back and limped home at low speed hoping that I wasn't starving a cylinder and scorching it. Now it is back in my driveway.
The engine is a '97 60hp (E60TLUEA) 3 cylinder carbed with vro2.
The gas tanks were clean and dry with new fuel. None of the system check lights came on though they cycle on for the self test. I can't be totally sure that the oil level went down since I only ran 2-3 gallon of gas. I had oil in the first 6gal tank but switched to the pure gas tank when it started acting up; no difference.
Got this engine last year, about 15 hours ago. Changed the fuel filter and rebuilt the carbs back then before I even used it.Ran a 'storage mixture' in for 15 minutes at the end of the season. Plugs look similar to each other and compression is 140, 140,140
what should I try next?
posted
- http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/021256.html
- http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engine-repair-and-maintenance/johnson-evinrude-outboards/9988312-intermittent-rough-running-60hp-97-evinrude
- http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?426509-intermittent-rough-running-60hp-97-Evinrude&highlight=intermittent+rough
- http://www.evinrudeoutboardforum.com/evinrude-outboard-parts-forum/3745-intermittent-rough-running-60hp-97-evinrude.html
- http://www.johnsonoutboardforum.com/johnson-outboard-parts-forum/4502-intermittent-rough-running-60hp-97-3cyl-vro2.html
bought from Joe Cintron jcintron4@comcast.net 781-572-6684
throttle lever removal starters
tilt
5/20/21
- troubleshoot
- unplug the connector close to where the green and blue wires enter the engine. Apply 12v between green and blue Replace motor if it does now work.
http://www.boats.net
0435260 VALVE BODY AY
Part# 0435260
http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fetch?id=6938645
http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fetch?id=6938646
VRO
http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html
controls
remote control 159 controls w square plug
low power
http://www.boatpartstore.com/tips.asp
He made an interesting comment that I would like some opinions on regarding the carbed V-6s OMCs (or any other carb outboard) of the era mentioned. He was from Florida and had worked on thousands of Johnson/s Evinrudes for over 2 decades and had personally seen many with thousands of hours on hour meters. His opinion was this. Those OMC carbed engines were great workhorses and mainly bulletproof except for this one issue. Many of the carbed OMCs of that era never had a chance to wear out the powerhead/pistons/rings from running time alone. Most of the time, a single piston siezed and ruined an engine long before compression figures on all cylinders came down to a non-usable state. The main problem was always a lack of maintaince, especially after long term storage. The owner would start up the engine and wouldlock up a cylinder because a carb was clogged up (jet I am assuming) and run the corrsponding cylinder lean and poof, it was over.
Does that sound right? I constantly see carb outboards for sale with a "bad cylinder" need of repair? Do many of these good ole carb outboards meet their time prematurly because of this reason alone?
If so, other than adding fuel stablizer and fogging cylinders, what else is good to do to prevent this after winter storage. Drain the carbs completely?
It seems an outboard carb owner is flying blind every spring starting up. How would one tell on start up if a cylinder is lean or a jet clogged before the damage is done?...
The weak spot in all multicylinder, multicarbed 2 strokes is the user who is either not alert to signs of fueling trouble or continues to run an engine that is not performing properly. If one carb throat clogs on a V4 or V6 (even inline triples and twins) the engine will still "sound" okay to the untrained ear; if the user continues to run the engine that cylinder is history.
If enough cylinders fail to make power so that the boat wont plane or wont come off idle they take it to a shop. Often that is too late.
The carbed OMC V4s and V6s are excellent engines when maintained properly, and will last into the 3,000-5,000 hour range without major repairs. I think the same is true of all multicylinder, multicarb engines of any make.
Johnson 50hp J50BELCN
http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/boa/4421090533.html
Johnson 50hp '82, running rough
- J50BELCN, 7/2013
- manifestation
- after running fine on 2 outings, the day started out running fine. 15 minutes later, after I hit the throttle entering Pleasant bay from little Pleasant bay I hit a couple of bumpy waves. The engine started running at less than 1/2 speed, running rough. Same at idle: very rough, stalling, the idle lever made little difference in engine speed.
- evidence that I should have given credence to
- lower carburetor had a little gas dripping out the air intake.
- tests
- fuel bulb seemed to pump up fine. But it slowly got un-firm. Pumping it while underway made no difference
- removing either plug wire caused stall
- plugs looked OK. similar to each other
- compression was good, same on both cylinders
- stator coil and charge coil resistance within specs.
- spraying starter fluid in upper carb caused engine to speed up, spraying into bottom carb had no effect.
- holding plug wires close to block, spark had no trouble jumping 1/2"
- solution
- Lower float was banging into the roof of the bowl before that little pin had shut off fuel flow into the carb. Excess fuel dripping out the front of the carb and was making it run rough. Hitting those bumps must have bent the float.
- the wild goose chase (or troubleshooting by credit card)
- There was a crack in one of the coils, I replaced it. The voltmeter wasn't reading the right peak voltage output from the power pack (though you can't measure that with a voltmeter). Replaced it. thought maybe the fuel hose was collapsing inside. Replaced it. Swapped out the fuel pump with one I had, after pulling it from the head and finding no evidence of fuel leaking from vacuum hole. Replaced fuel lines in motor (They looked pretty crappy anyway). Anybody need parts?
not fuel pump,power pack,coils
remote control cables as shown , will sell by the individual cable piece ,if your looking for a hard to find cable or length i may have it , note the whole lot is not for sale , just individual cables at discount prices , will beat the big W prices , i like doing business , tel 617-202-8910 will discount email or leave tel # located at 247 pleasant st watertown
mechanics
max outboard 781 335 4456
performance mayhem 978 996 4573
Zeoli's Marine Services http://www.zeolimarine.com 7 Thayer Ave Revere, MA 02151-1604 (617) 846-2800
Mck, I don't know if this guy is still in business - he worked out of a place called United Boater's Coop in Worcester MA. Last time I dealt with him was about 5 years ago, but he really knows his stuff with these older OMCs. He mentioned at one point that his dad was an OMC dealer in the Dominican Republic. Might be worth a try.
Raul Gonzalez - Marine Tech
508-471-4451
cell-786-537-7818
email: enginetek@gmail.com
certified evinrude
DIAMOND MARINE 36.7 miles Directions 108 JEFFREYS NECK RD. IPSWICH MA UNITED STATES 01938 Phone: (978) 356-6900 Fax: (978) 356-6900 Email: jeff@diamondmarinema.com Website: http://www.diamondmarinema.com Service Manager: Jeff Greenwood Mon-Fri 8:00 to 5:00 Sat 8:00 to 12:00
Fair Winds Marine Service 95 OCEAN AVE MARBLEHEAD MA UNITED STATES 01945 Phone: (781) 631-3388 Fax: (781) 631-3388 Email: fairwindoutboard@gmail.com
3A Marine Service 316 Lincoln Street Hingham, MA 02043 Phone:781-749-3250 Fax: 781-749-2054 http://www.3amarine.com/
Brown's Boat Yard REAR 139 E MAIN ST EAST GLOUCESTER MA UNITED STATES 01930 Manager: David Zingg Phone: (978) 281-3200 Fax: (978) 281-3201 Email: jc@brownsyy.com Website: http://www.brownsyy.com Service Manager: Mark Leahy booked to second week of august
forums
- http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?411110-Johnson-50hp-82-running-rough timmckenna 6j
- http://www.johnsonoutboardforum.com/johnson-outboard-parts-forum/3710-johnson-50hp-82-running-rough.html mcktimo 6j
- http://forums.iboats.com/johnson-evinrude-outboards/johnson-50hp-82-running-rough-622339.html mcktimo 6j
