Difference between revisions of "Boat"

From Wiki2
Line 1: Line 1:
==boat==
==boat==
 
===!{{prepare}}
===vhf ===
===vhf ===


Revision as of 10:10, 13 July 2025

boat

===! bakto -> boat

prepare

vhf

  • “Annabelle, Annabelle, Annabelle, this is Christine, Christine, Christine, channel 1-6, over"
  • "“Christine, this is Annabelle. Christine switch to 6-8."
  • "Christine switching 6-8".
  • "Annabelle returning to stand by channel 16,”
  • Safety calls, as recognized by the spoken phrase Securité
  • Urgency calls, as recognized by the spoken phrase pan-pan (pronounced pahn-pahn)
  • Distress calls, as recognized by the spoken phrase mayday are broadcast when

maintenance log

hull# 5A6610

wood locate on hull

anchor mounts

http://www.tapplastics.com/product/plastics/cut_to_size_plastic/king_starboard/526

http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-forum/157418-anchor-holder-back-boat.html#b


ladder

http://www.armstrongnautical.com/ladders.htm

http://www.basspro.com/Drifter-Marine-Stainless-Steel-2-Step-Universal-Folding-Transom-Ladder/product/12082405263326/#desc-tab

Biminis

60" tall bimini

6' or 8'

repower

I am going to switch out an '82 Johnson 50 on my ~'79 15' Sport, mainly because I am tired of tilting it up by hand. I got a 60hp Evinrude (60LTEUAvro). Even the top lower holes on it are below the well. The existing holes in the transom are pretty close to the bottom of the well. If I installed there the engine would end up a good 2" higher than the top of the transom. Is this OK?


back to boat

Evinrude 60hp E60TLEUA 1997

parts

  • carb rebuild 0396701, 18-7222, 18-7042 ~$16
  • fuel filter 0398327, 18-7830 ~$6
  • plugs QL78YC
  • 5004533 - Power Pack Kit CD3AL67
  • 0582508 - Ignition Coil

no acceleration, bad (troaty,slow) at midspeed, floor it and get to 20mph for a 500yards

check for carb kits, get spark plugs, clean carbs


no spark

Just died while running at 4 knots on a 85 degree day 15 min after crossing the sheepscot on 7/26/20. Got a DAV test probe, stator an timer and kill switch were OK. It was the power pack

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engine-repair-and-maintenance/johnson-evinrude-outboards/183209-1992-evinrude-no-spark-not-the-kill-switch

cdi part

CDI 113-4808 ignition pack 3 cyl install/troubleshoot in /onedrive/info/boat https://www.amazon.com/CDI-Electronics-173-4560-Johnson-Evinrude/dp/B00GRT6IS6

puller

starts then dies at WOT over and over

solution

Turns out it was the fuel pump. When Jeff (of Diamond Marine) watched the video it pushed him back to thinking it was a fuel problem; the slow repetition of surging and dying out did not seem to be electrical to him. When he took it out, he too pumped up the bulb when it was dying and it had no effect; so the common wisdom that if pumping the bulb has no effect, you can rule out the fuel pump turns out not to be true for these VRO2 type pumps. My mistake was to only check the choke at low speed. I though I was verifying that it wasn't stuck on but Jeff choked it at full-speed-dying-out and it came back to life. That was enough for him to decide it was the fuel pump.

So I spent the afternoon fishing in beautiful Ipswich MA, $1,200 poorer and with 4 weeks of summer having slipped away. $368 of it was Jeff repeating what I'd already done, plugs, fuel filter, rebuild carbs, change out the tank and hose. You see this kind of 'professionalism' all over our culture, from medicine to mechanics. The next $832 was 3 hours of labor + the VRO2 pump marked up 25% over what you can get it for from marineengine.com. I don't think they got rich off this job, between 2 trips to put it in the water, they probably spent more than 6 person hours.

So I learned a couple of things about diagnosing. Turns out there was no magic bullet of high speed tank or fancy test equipment. The two likely scenarios that I didn't want to get wrong were power pack or VRO2 pump. I could have bought both of those high price items + a coil, carb kits tank, hose and filter for less than 1/2 of what I spent at the certified tech. I shouldn't have chickened out, I was afraid to be just an (expensive) part replacer. Oh well. Thanks for all your help. Happy boating.

2nd post - starts then dies at WOT over and over

Runs good at low speeds. Push it to WOT it will spurt like its going to go but then dies to a crawl with a throaty moan, then picks up again then dies. Over and Over. Pumping the bulb has no effect. Does the same at mid speeds.

So far... winterized by the book, used new fuel in clean tanks then... rebuilt carbs, changed fuel line, changed tank, new fuel filter, new plugs, checked spark, checked compression.

Took it to Diamond Marine, an Evinrude certified tech in Ipswich MA for 'dies at WOT'. They repeated what I did, but never tested it at WOT. $360 later I put it in the Ipswich River and it is the same. Here is a video They say could still be fuel but maybe power pack or maybe stator.

The engine is a '97 60hp (E60TLUEA) 3 cylinder carbed with vro2.

Not sure where to go with this as my vacation slips away

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/021256.html
http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engine-repair-and-maintenance/johnson-evinrude-outboards/9991462-dies-to-a-crawl-when-you-hit-the-gas-60hp-97-evinrude
http://www.evinrudeoutboardforum.com/evinrude-outboard-parts-forum/3745-intermittent-rough-running-60hp-97-evinrude.html#post7874
http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?426509-intermittent-rough-running-60hp-97-Evinrude&highlight=intermittent+rough
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYKLVJyhy_c&feature=youtu.be

1st post - dies to a crawl when you hit the gas 60hp '97 Evinrude

Runs pretty good at idle. Will spurt like its going to go but then dies to a crawl with a throaty moan. I just pulled the carbs and went through them, changed the fuel filter, swapped out line to tank...nada...

last week...

Running at 'no wake speed' engine sounded good for 9 seconds then rough and throaty for 12 seconds for the entire 10 minute ride to the boat ramp. Varying speed slightly didn't change the pattern. First time in for the season was the day before and it ran fine on a little trip to the beach. On the return trip it wouldn't accelerate so I eased back and limped home at low speed hoping that I wasn't starving a cylinder and scorching it. Now it is back in my driveway.

The engine is a '97 60hp (E60TLUEA) 3 cylinder carbed with vro2.

The gas tanks were clean and dry with new fuel. None of the system check lights came on though they cycle on for the self test. I can't be totally sure that the oil level went down since I only ran 2-3 gallon of gas. I had oil in the first 6gal tank but switched to the pure gas tank when it started acting up; no difference.

Got this engine last year, about 15 hours ago. Changed the fuel filter and rebuilt the carbs back then before I even used it.Ran a 'storage mixture' in for 15 minutes at the end of the season. Plugs look similar to each other and compression is 140, 140,140

what should I try next?


posted


bought from Joe Cintron jcintron4@comcast.net 781-572-6684

throttle lever removal starters

tilt

5/20/21

troubleshoot
  1. unplug the connector close to where the green and blue wires enter the engine. Apply 12v between green and blue Replace motor if it does now work.


http://www.boats.net 0435260 VALVE BODY AY Part# 0435260

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fetch?id=6938645

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fetch?id=6938646

VRO

http://continuouswave.com/whaler/reference/VRO.html

VRO tank new vro tank

VRO repair

controls

control cables shorter

remote control 159 controls w square plug

remote control wiring both

lower engine cover parts

low power

http://www.boatpartstore.com/tips.asp

aninteresting forum post

He made an interesting comment that I would like some opinions on regarding the carbed V-6s OMCs (or any other carb outboard) of the era mentioned. He was from Florida and had worked on thousands of Johnson/s Evinrudes for over 2 decades and had personally seen many with thousands of hours on hour meters. His opinion was this. Those OMC carbed engines were great workhorses and mainly bulletproof except for this one issue. Many of the carbed OMCs of that era never had a chance to wear out the powerhead/pistons/rings from running time alone. Most of the time, a single piston siezed and ruined an engine long before compression figures on all cylinders came down to a non-usable state. The main problem was always a lack of maintaince, especially after long term storage. The owner would start up the engine and wouldlock up a cylinder because a carb was clogged up (jet I am assuming) and run the corrsponding cylinder lean and poof, it was over.

Does that sound right? I constantly see carb outboards for sale with a "bad cylinder" need of repair? Do many of these good ole carb outboards meet their time prematurly because of this reason alone?

If so, other than adding fuel stablizer and fogging cylinders, what else is good to do to prevent this after winter storage. Drain the carbs completely?

It seems an outboard carb owner is flying blind every spring starting up. How would one tell on start up if a cylinder is lean or a jet clogged before the damage is done?...

The weak spot in all multicylinder, multicarbed 2 strokes is the user who is either not alert to signs of fueling trouble or continues to run an engine that is not performing properly. If one carb throat clogs on a V4 or V6 (even inline triples and twins) the engine will still "sound" okay to the untrained ear; if the user continues to run the engine that cylinder is history.

If enough cylinders fail to make power so that the boat wont plane or wont come off idle they take it to a shop. Often that is too late.

The carbed OMC V4s and V6s are excellent engines when maintained properly, and will last into the 3,000-5,000 hour range without major repairs. I think the same is true of all multicylinder, multicarb engines of any make.

Johnson 50hp J50BELCN

http://boston.craigslist.org/gbs/boa/4421090533.html

Johnson 50hp '82, running rough

J50BELCN, 7/2013
manifestation
after running fine on 2 outings, the day started out running fine. 15 minutes later, after I hit the throttle entering Pleasant bay from little Pleasant bay I hit a couple of bumpy waves. The engine started running at less than 1/2 speed, running rough. Same at idle: very rough, stalling, the idle lever made little difference in engine speed.
evidence that I should have given credence to
lower carburetor had a little gas dripping out the air intake.
tests
fuel bulb seemed to pump up fine. But it slowly got un-firm. Pumping it while underway made no difference
removing either plug wire caused stall
plugs looked OK. similar to each other
compression was good, same on both cylinders
stator coil and charge coil resistance within specs.
spraying starter fluid in upper carb caused engine to speed up, spraying into bottom carb had no effect.
holding plug wires close to block, spark had no trouble jumping 1/2"
solution
Lower float was banging into the roof of the bowl before that little pin had shut off fuel flow into the carb. Excess fuel dripping out the front of the carb and was making it run rough. Hitting those bumps must have bent the float.
the wild goose chase (or troubleshooting by credit card)
There was a crack in one of the coils, I replaced it. The voltmeter wasn't reading the right peak voltage output from the power pack (though you can't measure that with a voltmeter). Replaced it. thought maybe the fuel hose was collapsing inside. Replaced it. Swapped out the fuel pump with one I had, after pulling it from the head and finding no evidence of fuel leaking from vacuum hole. Replaced fuel lines in motor (They looked pretty crappy anyway). Anybody need parts?


not fuel pump,power pack,coils

remote control cables as shown , will sell by the individual cable piece ,if your looking for a hard to find cable or length i may have it , note the whole lot is not for sale , just individual cables at discount prices , will beat the big W prices , i like doing business , tel 617-202-8910 will discount email or leave tel # located at 247 pleasant st watertown

mechanics

max outboard 781 335 4456

performance mayhem 978 996 4573

Zeoli's Marine Services http://www.zeolimarine.com 7 Thayer Ave Revere, MA 02151-1604 (617) 846-2800

Mck, I don't know if this guy is still in business - he worked out of a place called United Boater's Coop in Worcester MA. Last time I dealt with him was about 5 years ago, but he really knows his stuff with these older OMCs. He mentioned at one point that his dad was an OMC dealer in the Dominican Republic. Might be worth a try.
Raul Gonzalez - Marine Tech
508-471-4451 cell-786-537-7818
email: enginetek@gmail.com

certified evinrude

DIAMOND MARINE 36.7 miles Directions 108 JEFFREYS NECK RD. IPSWICH MA UNITED STATES 01938 Phone: (978) 356-6900 Fax: (978) 356-6900 Email: jeff@diamondmarinema.com Website: http://www.diamondmarinema.com Service Manager: Jeff Greenwood Mon-Fri 8:00 to 5:00 Sat 8:00 to 12:00

Fair Winds Marine Service 95 OCEAN AVE MARBLEHEAD MA UNITED STATES 01945 Phone: (781) 631-3388 Fax: (781) 631-3388 Email: fairwindoutboard@gmail.com

3A Marine Service 316 Lincoln Street Hingham, MA 02043 Phone:781-749-3250 Fax: 781-749-2054 http://www.3amarine.com/

Brown's Boat Yard REAR 139 E MAIN ST EAST GLOUCESTER MA UNITED STATES 01930 Manager: David Zingg Phone: (978) 281-3200 Fax: (978) 281-3201 Email: jc@brownsyy.com Website: http://www.brownsyy.com Service Manager: Mark Leahy booked to second week of august

forums

http://www.marineengine.com/discus/messages/12478/287100.shtml
http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?411110-Johnson-50hp-82-running-rough timmckenna 6j
http://www.johnsonoutboardforum.com/johnson-outboard-parts-forum/3710-johnson-50hp-82-running-rough.html mcktimo 6j
http://forums.iboats.com/johnson-evinrude-outboards/johnson-50hp-82-running-rough-622339.html mcktimo 6j
Retrieved from "https://wiki2.sitebuilt.net/index.php?title=Boat&oldid=13712"