Evinrude 60hp E60TLEUA 1997

back to boat

Evinrude 60hp E60TLEUA 1997

parts

carb rebuild 0396701, 18-7222, 18-7042 ~$16
fuel filter 0398327, 18-7830 ~$6
plugs QL78YC
5004533 - Power Pack Kit CD3AL67
0582508 - Ignition Coil

no spark

Just died while running at 4 knots on a 85 degree day 15 min after crossing the sheepscot

https://forums.iboats.com/forum/engine-repair-and-maintenance/johnson-evinrude-outboards/183209-1992-evinrude-no-spark-not-the-kill-switch

cdi part

CDI 113-4808 ignition pack 3 cyl install/troubleshoot in /onedrive/info/boat https://www.amazon.com/CDI-Electronics-173-4560-Johnson-Evinrude/dp/B00GRT6IS6

starts then dies at WOT over and over

solution

Turns out it was the fuel pump. When Jeff (of Diamond Marine) watched the video it pushed him back to thinking it was a fuel problem; the slow repetition of surging and dying out did not seem to be electrical to him. When he took it out, he too pumped up the bulb when it was dying and it had no effect; so the common wisdom that if pumping the bulb has no effect, you can rule out the fuel pump turns out not to be true for these VRO2 type pumps. My mistake was to only check the choke at low speed. I though I was verifying that it wasn't stuck on but Jeff choked it at full-speed-dying-out and it came back to life. That was enough for him to decide it was the fuel pump.

So I spent the afternoon fishing in beautiful Ipswich MA, $1,200 poorer and with 4 weeks of summer having slipped away. $368 of it was Jeff repeating what I'd already done, plugs, fuel filter, rebuild carbs, change out the tank and hose. You see this kind of 'professionalism' all over our culture, from medicine to mechanics. The next $832 was 3 hours of labor + the VRO2 pump marked up 25% over what you can get it for from marineengine.com. I don't think they got rich off this job, between 2 trips to put it in the water, they probably spent more than 6 person hours.

So I learned a couple of things about diagnosing. Turns out there was no magic bullet of high speed tank or fancy test equipment. The two likely scenarios that I didn't want to get wrong were power pack or VRO2 pump. I could have bought both of those high price items + a coil, carb kits tank, hose and filter for less than 1/2 of what I spent at the certified tech. I shouldn't have chickened out, I was afraid to be just an (expensive) part replacer. Oh well. Thanks for all your help. Happy boating.

2nd post - starts then dies at WOT over and over

Runs good at low speeds. Push it to WOT it will spurt like its going to go but then dies to a crawl with a throaty moan, then picks up again then dies. Over and Over. Pumping the bulb has no effect. Does the same at mid speeds.

So far... winterized by the book, used new fuel in clean tanks then... rebuilt carbs, changed fuel line, changed tank, new fuel filter, new plugs, checked spark, checked compression.

Took it to Diamond Marine, an Evinrude certified tech in Ipswich MA for 'dies at WOT'. They repeated what I did, but never tested it at WOT. $360 later I put it in the Ipswich River and it is the same. Here is a video They say could still be fuel but maybe power pack or maybe stator.

The engine is a '97 60hp (E60TLUEA) 3 cylinder carbed with vro2.

Not sure where to go with this as my vacation slips away

http://continuouswave.com/ubb/Forum3/HTML/021256.html

http://forums.iboats.com/forum/engine-repair-and-maintenance/johnson-evinrude-outboards/9991462-dies-to-a-crawl-when-you-hit-the-gas-60hp-97-evinrude

http://www.evinrudeoutboardforum.com/evinrude-outboard-parts-forum/3745-intermittent-rough-running-60hp-97-evinrude.html#post7874

http://www.marineengine.com/boat-forum/showthread.php?426509-intermittent-rough-running-60hp-97-Evinrude&highlight=intermittent+rough

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HYKLVJyhy_c&feature=youtu.be

1st post - dies to a crawl when you hit the gas 60hp '97 Evinrude

Runs pretty good at idle. Will spurt like its going to go but then dies to a crawl with a throaty moan. I just pulled the carbs and went through them, changed the fuel filter, swapped out line to tank...nada...

last week...

Running at 'no wake speed' engine sounded good for 9 seconds then rough and throaty for 12 seconds for the entire 10 minute ride to the boat ramp. Varying speed slightly didn't change the pattern. First time in for the season was the day before and it ran fine on a little trip to the beach. On the return trip it wouldn't accelerate so I eased back and limped home at low speed hoping that I wasn't starving a cylinder and scorching it. Now it is back in my driveway.

The engine is a '97 60hp (E60TLUEA) 3 cylinder carbed with vro2.

The gas tanks were clean and dry with new fuel. None of the system check lights came on though they cycle on for the self test. I can't be totally sure that the oil level went down since I only ran 2-3 gallon of gas. I had oil in the first 6gal tank but switched to the pure gas tank when it started acting up; no difference.

Got this engine last year, about 15 hours ago. Changed the fuel filter and rebuilt the carbs back then before I even used it.Ran a 'storage mixture' in for 15 minutes at the end of the season. Plugs look similar to each other and compression is 140, 140,140

what should I try next?

posted

bought from Joe Cintron jcintron4@comcast.net 781-572-6684

throttle lever removal starters

tilt

http://www.boats.net 0435260 VALVE BODY AY Part# 0435260

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fetch?id=6938645

http://forums.iboats.com/filedata/fetch?id=6938646

He made an interesting comment that I would like some opinions on regarding the carbed V-6s OMCs (or any other carb outboard) of the era mentioned. He was from Florida and had worked on thousands of Johnson/s Evinrudes for over 2 decades and had personally seen many with thousands of hours on hour meters. His opinion was this. Those OMC carbed engines were great workhorses and mainly bulletproof except for this one issue. Many of the carbed OMCs of that era never had a chance to wear out the powerhead/pistons/rings from running time alone. Most of the time, a single piston siezed and ruined an engine long before compression figures on all cylinders came down to a non-usable state. The main problem was always a lack of maintaince, especially after long term storage. The owner would start up the engine and wouldlock up a cylinder because a carb was clogged up (jet I am assuming) and run the corrsponding cylinder lean and poof, it was over.

Does that sound right? I constantly see carb outboards for sale with a "bad cylinder" need of repair? Do many of these good ole carb outboards meet their time prematurly because of this reason alone?

If so, other than adding fuel stablizer and fogging cylinders, what else is good to do to prevent this after winter storage. Drain the carbs completely?

It seems an outboard carb owner is flying blind every spring starting up. How would one tell on start up if a cylinder is lean or a jet clogged before the damage is done?...

The weak spot in all multicylinder, multicarbed 2 strokes is the user who is either not alert to signs of fueling trouble or continues to run an engine that is not performing properly. If one carb throat clogs on a V4 or V6 (even inline triples and twins) the engine will still "sound" okay to the untrained ear; if the user continues to run the engine that cylinder is history.

If enough cylinders fail to make power so that the boat wont plane or wont come off idle they take it to a shop. Often that is too late.

The carbed OMC V4s and V6s are excellent engines when maintained properly, and will last into the 3,000-5,000 hour range without major repairs. I think the same is true of all multicylinder, multicarb engines of any make.

Anonymous

Search

Evinrude 60hp E60TLEUA 1997

Namespaces

More

Page actions

Contents